At Palava, we've always believed it is every woman's right to have pockets. And we don't just mean the itty-bitty decorative ones. We mean deep pockets that we can fit our stuff in and are actually useful! That's why we make all of our dresses with deep pockets.
But why isn't this the norm? Why do so many dresses and trousers not have pockets? Well, the answer is perhaps not what you’d expect...
If you want a quick visual overview, here's an infographic on the timeline. But skip past it for the details.
Pockets: where did they come from?
It’s tricky to track the exact moment when pockets popped up, as it’s understandably not an area that’s documented in-depth in the history books. But it’s believed that pockets, as we know them today, first appeared in the 16th century as small pouches sewn into clothing.
Back then, pockets were mainly used by men to carry practical items like coins, tools, keys, tobacco, and perhaps a quantity of gin - cheeky! Women, on the other hand, relied on bags and purses to transport their stuff. This distinction reflected the drastically different roles of men and women during those ye olde days.
17th century onwards - The rise of women’s pockets
In the 17th century, women began to adopt pockets for carrying personal items. Yet, these pockets were often hidden within the petticoats or skirts of their dresses. This design choice was driven by societal expectations and the desire to maintain a ‘feminine’ silhouette.
Then came the Industrial Revolution, women entered the workforce in rising numbers, taking on jobs that required greater mobility and personal items to be carried around. As such, there was more demand for clothing with functional pockets.
Nevertheless, the design of women's clothing continued to be constrained by traditional style expectations. We’re talking about more utilitarian designs than the deeply pocketed garments that we - Palava - create, these days.
All our dresses, trousers and skirts have deep pockets. Proper pockets. Pockets you can fit your entire hand in, your phone, your keys, your flask, your feminist propaganda... you name it!
19th century - The regression of women’s pockets!
Despite all this progress, in the 19th century, the popularity of women's clothing without pockets rocketed. This trend can be put down to a sprinkle of prohibiting factors:
- Changing fashion trends: The emphasis on corseted waists and elaborate embellishments made it difficult to welcome functional pockets into women's clothing.
- Social expectations: Women were still expected to adhere to traditional gender roles, and pockets were seen as a sign of unbecoming independence and assertiveness.
- Practical considerations: The design of women's clothing often limited the need for pockets. For example, women carried handbags and reticules to carry their belongings.
Early 20th century - women’s pockets come back then retreat!
In the 20th century, women's clothing began to evolve with the revolutionary times. Pockets gradually became more common in women's garments, although their size and placement often varied. Take the suffragette suit, with its conspicuous pockets, which was designed in 1910 by the American Ladies’ Tailor Association to support freedom of movement, and women’s liberation in general.
Women's suits the suffragettes used to wear (that's Sylvia Pankhurst in the lower picture!) - plenty of places to hide practical pockets. Image sources: History Today and The Mirror.
The two world wars at this time, and ensuing austerity, also meant that style took a back seat to stoic pragmatism. So until the 1950s, you’d find more pockets in women’s clothing that you could actually put stuff in.
But hold on, in the booming post-war era we find another age of ambivalence towards practical pockets in women’s clothing! Fashion auteurs believing them to not quite be elegant enough for their expansive creations. In fact, Christian Dior is down on record as saying that ‘Men have pockets to keep things in, women for decoration.’
Since then, women’s pockets have had more ups and downs but haven’t quite got going into a steady stride.
Today: pockets are more pertinent - and sustainable
Today, the debate over pockets for women is especially pertinent. The continuing lack of pockets in women's clothing is arguably a reflection of outdated gender stereotypes.
In recent years, there has also been a growing distaste around the environmental impact of the fashion industry. Rightly so, as the fashion industry is believed to be responsible for around 10% of carbon emissions. One small measure to reduce this notorious waste is to design clothing with practical features, such as pockets.
More pockets please! All our Heritage Trench Coats have pockets too.
By judiciously adding pockets and other handy extras into their designs, sustainable fashion brands make their garments more practical to wear every day and can thus encourage folk to wear garments for longer periods of time. This reduces the environmental impact of the fashion industry. Sustainability isn’t just about fabrics, it’s also about longevity. More functional = more sustainable. Every little (pocket) helps.
Pocket equality still has some way to go - except at Palava
The history of pockets in women's clothing is a bit of a rollercoaster along social and cultural tracks. While pockets have become more sighted in recent years, there is still a long way to go before they are as ubiquitous in women's fashion as they are in men’s. By choosing garments with pockets, we can help to challenge outdated gender stereotypes and promote a more equitable and sustainable fashion industry.
Which brings us right back to where we started, at Palava. Here, we believe that every woman deserves to have pockets in her clothing. We are committed to designing garments that are both stylish, functional and sustainable. Not one of those things.
By choosing Palava, you are not only investing in a high-quality piece of clothing but also supporting a brand that is committed to challenging traditional gender stereotypes and promoting sustainable fashion.
Our pockets are deep but discreet!
