A brief history of women's pockets

At Palava, we've always believed it is every woman's right to have pockets. And we don't just mean the itty-bitty decorative ones. We mean deep pockets that we can fit our stuff in and are actually useful! That's why we make all of our dresses with deep pockets.

But why isn't this the norm? Why do so many dresses and trousers not have pockets? Well, the answer is perhaps not what you’d expect...

If you want a quick visual overview, here's an infographic to tell the story of the timeline. 

Pockets: where did they come from?

The oldest proof of people wearing pockets-like pouches is believed to be ‘The Iceman’, a perfectly preserved mummy. It is thought that he lived around 3,300 BCE. 

We don't know the exact dates pockets were invented, but it is believed that pockets started as little pouches, often strapped to a belt. 

The work pocket actually comes from the old French word ‘poke’ or ‘pouque’, meaning pouch. 

In the 17th Century, pockets began to be sewn into men's garments, but not women's.

17th century onwards - The rise of women’s pockets

‘Tie-on’ pockets are increasing in popularity for women, becoming commonly used from the 1650s onwards. 

These ‘tie-on’ pockets were worn under panniers and skirts, with the split between skirts making them accessible. 

The surviving pockets show us that they were quite big; many were as big as 40cm long and 30cm wide. Women were known to carry many practical items in their pockets, as well as fun trinkets.

In the 18th century, the fashion began to shift to a slimmer silhouette and higher waistlines. This meant that the tie-on pockets would bulge, affecting the drape of the dress, and therefore, pockets went out of 'fashion'. 

Women began using small, handheld bags called ‘reticules’. This was the start of the modern-day handbag. These bags, however, carried very little in comparison to the tie-on pockets. The belief being that women did not need to carry anything other than a coin and a handkerchief.

In the 1840s, there was another shift in silhouettes, with skirts becoming bigger again. Seamstresses and at-home sewists started adding hidden pockets into the seams of skirts, as well as advising other women to do so. These pockets were hidden and not openly talked about.  

All our dresses, trousers and skirts have deep pockets. Proper pockets. Pockets you can fit your entire hand in, your phone, your keys, your flask, your feminist propaganda... you name it! 

Early 20th century - women’s pockets come back then retreat!

In the 20th century, women started protesting for independence. A direct symbol of that long-denied independence was the pocket. 

In 1910, the “suffragette suit” became all the rage. These suits supported 6 - 8 pockets which were easily accessible, with some even being in plain sight! 

In the lead-up to WWI, women's clothing became more practical, and larger pockets started becoming the norm. With women taking jobs previously held by men, fashion shifted again to more practical silhouettes. Taking on styles and details commonly found in men's clothing, and pockets were a part of these details. These trends continued into the outbreak of WWII, with practicality being prioritized over aesthetics. 

These advancements, however,  were not to last. With the end of the wars, men returned home and were expecting to reclaim their previous jobs, and women's silhouettes changed again, slimmer and with less room for pockets. Paired with the handbag industry growing, it was no longer in companies' interests to add pockets back into women's clothing. 

The “new look” introduced by Christian Dior was the latest fashion. The pockets shrank and started being left out of women's clothing entirely, with Dior reportedly saying, ‘Men have pockets to keep things in, women for decoration.’ 

Today: pockets are more pertinent - and sustainable

Today, the debate over pockets for women is especially pertinent. The continuing lack of pockets in women's clothing is arguably a reflection of outdated gender stereotypes.

In recent years, there has also been a growing distaste around the environmental impact of the fashion industry. Rightly so, as the fashion industry is believed to be responsible for around 10% of carbon emissions. One small measure to reduce this notorious waste is to design clothing with practical features, such as pockets.  

By judiciously adding pockets and other handy extras into their designs, sustainable fashion brands make their garments more practical to wear every day and can thus encourage folk to wear garments for longer periods of time. This reduces the environmental impact of the fashion industry. Sustainability isn’t just about fabrics, it’s also about longevity. More functional = more sustainable. Every little (pocket) helps.

Pocket equality still has some way to go - except at Palava

The history of pockets in women's clothing is a bit of a rollercoaster along social and cultural tracks. While pockets have become more sighted in recent years, there is still a long way to go before they are as ubiquitous in women's fashion as they are in men’s. By choosing garments with pockets, we can help to challenge outdated gender stereotypes and promote a more equitable and sustainable fashion industry.

Which brings us right back to where we started, at Palava. Here, we believe that every woman deserves to have pockets in her clothing. We are committed to designing garments that are both stylish, functional and sustainable. Not one of those things.

By choosing Palava, you are not only investing in a high-quality piece of clothing but also supporting a brand that is committed to challenging traditional gender stereotypes and promoting sustainable fashion.

Our pockets are deep but discreet!